Sunday, July 10, 2011

Chiapas, Mexico July 6-11, 2011


Palanque - San Cristobal de Las Cases - Sumidero Canyon -  Tuxtla Gutierrez

"Chiapas Siempre Verde"
As soon as we left the Yucatan peninsula, the soil turned from white to brownish-red, the grass was greener and more lush and there were more horses, cows and goats.


San Cristobal de Las Cases
Cool, clean, crisp mountain air at 7,000 feet above sea level - I LOVE IT!!!!
San Cristobal is an unique city with a diverse community of people from around Chiapas and around the world.


Again our hotel and breakfast are amazing, Casa Mexicana Hotel. My room and the view


The home of Sergio Munoz - Indian communities traditional clothes and burn clinic
'Sergio is one of those unique  individuals who is impacting so many lives in quiet and humble way. As a young man he had studied to become a veterinarian but he said that when he began to go out into the villages he saw that the need was more  for human care than for that of  animals.' He has also built 25 schools in the surrounding communities.
Sergio has collected over 50 male and female traditional costumes from the surrounding communities.
Above he show us an instrument and in the lower left you see a photo of the Lacondones, a community with less than 600 people left.

Sergio's Burn Clinic
With open fires being the center of the kitchen, many young people are the victims of domestic accidents. These burn victims have been able to come to Sergio’s burn clinic for treatment either at no cost or bartered goods. We brought Tegaderm bandages, Neosporin, gauze and monetary donations. Any donations of money or medical items is gladly welcome and needed since there is no government funding. Please click on the link to learn about his work and consider making a donation. http://www.yokchij.org/



A delicious Mexican restaurant with marimba, guitar, singing and a full room dedicated to the modern Zapatista indigenous uprising in Chiapas on January 1, 1994. The uprising was scheduled to coincide with the signing of the North American Free Trade Agreement.



Our first day we retired our bus in favor of taxis - it was a great way to see and listen to the city. Our first taxi driver spent several years working in Kentucky. He saved enough money to return to Mexico and open a travel agency. I am learning that this is quite common-Mexicans working in the US to return home to start a business or fulfill a religious obligation that enriches their community.


VW beetles are everywhere but no slug bugs


The "Misery Belt" is a series of impoverished neighborhoods around the periphery of San Cristóbal, inhabited by indigenous villagers. Many of these people have been ex-communicated from the catholic church and ostracized from Chamula and other communities for becoming Episcopalian or Protestant.

Centro de Desarrollo de la Medicina Maya Museo - Herbolaria Medicina Natural

Taller de Lenateros is a stationery shop, originally set up 35 years ago as a recycling project by the Mexican poet Ambar Past. We were treated to an insiders’ view of paper making and the use of natural dyes and colors. The paper products original books are exquisite and a definite must if coming to San Cristóbal.



Na Bolom in the rain and a photograph of the Lacandones framed by the arch.
http://www.nabolom.org/

The present and the future

Walter Morris (aka Chip), Janet and Maruch





 Sunday market in San Juan Chamula San Juan Chamula

No photography or recording devices are allowed in the church at the back of the square. This article gets close to describing the syncretic worship and devotion that takes place inside. 
http://www.forteantimes.com/features/fortean_traveller/253/san_juan_chamula_mexico_a_church_out_of_time.html


A warm tortilla lunch in Zinacantan, delicious!


The Nandayapa family Marimba studio and workshop on the Grijalva River in Chiapa de Corzo. The marimba came to Mexico from Africa and was modified by the Maya and Mestizo to become the instrument that it is today.

Sumidero Canyon, the Grand Canyon of Mexico
An alter to  Our Lady Of Guadalupe tucked away on the side of a canyon wall. Once a year the community celebrates with a boat parade to the shrine.

The view from above the canyon with the clouds and the river below.

While I was at Sumidero Canyon, Richard, Henry and Alex were at the Grand Canyon!


Above the clouds


Palanque
Look for a mound or hill in the jungle and you will probably find an archeological wonder underneath. Palanque is my favorite site in Mexico as it is still partially covered by the jungle. Uncovering new ruins has stopped due to the damage it has taken on the jungle. Victor, our guide, first takes on a path through the jungle, where we climb hills to find that we are standing on ruins that we may never fully uncover. Victor also shares with us plants that will help your liver and with diabetes (smelled like cloves).

Did you know that the Mayans used aqueducts to channel water and frescoed the walls of their buildings?


After one of our jungle walks, Jacques offers me three avocados that he found along the path. I love avocados and have eaten them at almost every meal since I arrived in Mexico.  Once they ripen, we will all enjoy them. I just found out it takes 3 weeks for avocados to ripen!


Chan Kah Eco village is our paradise jungle retreat during our stay. Green plants and flowers are everywhere including our roofs, the original green roof.

We enjoyed eating our meals outside and swimming in the rain. You have never seen a downpour until you have experienced Chiapas during the rainy season. Absolute torrents of rain with rivers appearing out of nowhere. This environment also hosts the largest rodent, Couti, I have ever seen and hope never to see again. At first, I though it was a pig.


Saturday, July 9, 2011

Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico June 29-July 5, 2011

Chichen Itza
The pyramid and ball court




A Hacienda for lunch and then on to Merida, the capital of the Yucatan.


Merida - City life in the Yucatan
Ballet Folklorico
http://youtu.be/jiVjnNx6ckU

In every city park there are signs posted similar to our public service announcements.
"The best legacy a father can give to his children is to spend time with them every day. Enjoy your family"

"Together we can keep Merida safe"

Silvia, an English teacher in Uman just outside of Merida.

We meet with Secondario (Jr. High) teacher-advisors and teachers for two hours one morning. It was wonderful to have conversations with teachers. The Advisors or Counselors to teachers is similar to my position as an academic coach – professional development. They observe classrooms and found that few teachers had students work on group projects. Because of that, last year teachers were trained in group projects, asked to complete a group project with their students and bring the group work and experience to a large state-wide training the week of July 4, 2011. Both of the teachers said that group work took up too much time and didn’t work with their students. They preferred students to work alone and complete individual portfolios.

Sign Language interpreters are called ghosts because they shadow their students and speak for them.

English teachers teach the English language using the students' culture not an English speaking culture. Many languages in the USA are taught to students for use in travel outside of their city/country. In the USA, the food, celebrations and culture of that language are mostly taught through the target language. In the Yucatan, English is taught to be used in their city and students learn English through their own food, celebrations and culture not the culture of English speaking people.



Huge murals by Fernando Castro Pacheco in the government building that told the story of the Maya and the negative impact of the Spanish conquest. In the colonial cities there has been a much greater focus on New Spain than on the Maya.


Sisal was the "Indian's master" and he needed to break the colonial chains.
Celestun – A 2-hour very wet boat ride to see beautiful flamingos, swimming in the waves and more avocados at the beach restaurant.


4th of July
Jacques brought out American flags and played the National Anthem and My Country 'Tis of Thee.


Hacienda Sotuto de Peon
I felt that I was experiencing the industrial revolution with the long and complicated production of henequen (sisal) moving from individuals to multiple machines.
Sisal is the port city in the Yucatan that was stamped on the henequen before it was exported. When other countries received the bales of henequen with Sisal stamped on it, they thought that was the name of the fiber. To this day, most people outside of the Yucatan still call this fiber sisal.

Steam provided fuel for machines. Wood and sisal pulp was burned and now diesel fuel is used.

Traditional Mayan home w/ Antonio and a sisal hammock

To find a cenote, an underground pool, in the Yucatan, look for a large poplar tree. Every cenote has large poplar tree at its entrance and the roots drink from the cenote’s fresh water. This cenote is protected more than most and everyone must shower before entering the water.


Lunch w/ jicama con cilantro, jus de jamaica y un margarita con sisal juice/pulp

Becal
“The city of Becal is like swiss cheese” . Yucatan imported this plant used to weave 'panama' hats, from Ecuador. We rode bicycle taxis to one home where the family has dug a cave to make Panama hats using palm.
Twenty people work in a backyard cave making panama hats. The climate is too hot and dry to bend and weave the palm so caves were built where weaving could be done in a more humid environment.
The cave was hot and stifling, I cannot imagine being in there for more than 30 minutes!



Campeche
We arrived just in time for the beautiful sunset over the Bay of Campeche and then the dark clouds and rain rolled in that made the town square sparkle. Campeche is a colonial walled city that was attacked by pirates on several occasions, seriously.

Campeche is also the most fit city I have ever witnessed. Along the bay is a sea walk where people run, jog, walk, participate in group fitness classes and tae kwon do every morning and afternoon.

"The pedestrian is first"

Coconut shrimp - a local specialty


The San Lorenzo fort is very similar to the fort in Old San Juan, Puerto Rico


Xpicob turtle conservation camp, Bay of Campeche - Miguel is a marine biologist and started this camp 7 years ago. We met and spoke with wonderful people, kayaked in the bay and released to the sea the 7-year old turtle pictured below - absolutely amazing!

A professor from the Campeche applied sciences university joined us with his students and his son. His son, 10 years old, and I spent the whole time trying to communicate in Spanish. He was wonderful and it felt good to be around children again.




Cancun

Rain will welcome us to Mexico with Tropical Storm Arlene, "Heavy rains, flash flooding and mudslides will be the main dangers in Mexico". Arlene will be ahead us by 1-2 days and she should not have a big impact on our our travels or on Mexico.

Cancun is a city of extreme contrasts and hospitality. Our hotel, Presidente InterContinenetal hotel Cancun and the Cancun where the workers/laborers live.

 CEYTE technical school, Cancun, Mexico
The staff and students were generous hosts as they toured us around their school, presented, made lunch for us and performed music and traditional dances.

Their biggest problem is that students do not know how to study - sound familiar? As the school is in Cancun, students can choose one of these four areas of study - Tourism, Maintenance, Biology and Electricity. Taking care of the environment was an important part of the the students ecology lessons and there were many posters and signs reminding students to recycle and take care of the earth.

Que quieres ser en el futuro?
http://youtu.be/jq9vzqtyg0M

Valladolid
A beautiful colonial town with an amazing square, architecture, streets and delicious food.
Our hotel-


Browsing titles from the public library with Bruno Mars' Just The Way You Are playing in the next room.